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Sled-werx Racing - Project Dragon 800sp

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#1 Guest_Spenc_*

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Posted 13 October 2008 - 06:32 PM


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Now that our Dragon 800SP has arrived we'll get to work.....

While Rebecca awaits to get her XTX out on the trails, we'll throw another project build together here. Will be totally honest, as pumped as I was for this sled back during Snow Check, recent reliable dyno reports from both DynoTech Research and DYNOPORT did not dyno this sled well at all, in fact 10HP down from what POLARIS is still advertising on their national web site. Regardless our dragon still found it's way home so we'll do what we can to get this thing rock'n and show our clientele what 'werx'. I would imagine new Dragon 800SP owners will be receiving some help from Polaris ( in good business ) to get these sleds to the advertised 154HP Polaris is still claiming to entice sales, whether that be a re-map, a different exhaust, or whatever else it takes to make things 'right' with consumers!

First impressions - This sled FEELS 'light' , lighter in fact ( when moving around physically) than our 03 F7. Given we can get the HP up to par and get the power to the track we think this little Dragon is going to turn a few heads! Fit and Finish is not what the Yamaha build has shown but we will give POLARIS credit in this department for coming a long way since our XLT days. Fitment of the body panels isn't the greatest, in fact its' the first thing we noticed that was poor, as well the seat foam we find too firm, other that that you can't beat the overall look and feel of this sled! it's just all out horny as crap!

We would like to thank Dan Witmer at GEAR HEAD in Bell's Corners for providing the best deal we could find on this 09 DRAGON. Make sure to give them a look if you're ready for a new sled/atv or scooter!

Gear Head

320 Moodie Drive
Ottawa, ON K2H 8G3, Canada
(613) 828-9151
Get directions

More information http://gearheadcanada.com/
Open Mon-Wed 9am-6pm; Thu-Fri 9am-7pm; Sat 10am-4pm

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Stay 'tuned'

#2 Guest_Spenc_*

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Posted 15 October 2008 - 08:07 PM

Before we start tweeking and wrenching on the project sled we need to start with a baseline weight. To get an accurate weight we'll use the INTERCOMP Performance Racing Scale series SW500. Anyone who's into Powersports like we are will appreciate the value of this new line of products we're now offering.

INTERCOMP is known around the world for their dead accurate digital pro weigh scales, so we brought a set in just for this projuct build. You can find this exact set that comes with 4 pads on our www.sled-werx.com page for only $995 CAD.

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SW500 E-Z 4 pad Weight Scale
400lb capacity per pad, total max capacity 1600lbs
( weigh sled or atv plus Rider! )
certifed to 0.1% accuracy
only $995 CAD reg $1099 IN STOCK

With full oil and coolant and 2 bars of fuel on the digital tach our PROJECT DRAGON 800SP weighed in at 522.5 LBS . We weighed the sled two different ways, once by using a pad under each ski and two pads for front and rear of the skid and again with a pad under each ski and one pad under the center of the rear skid. Results were identical as they should be. Somewhere there's 46lbs in two bars of fuel on the digital tach and coolant and oil at or near full levels. POLARIS's advertises a "dry weight" of 476 lbs. We already know their HP was off, so we wanted to see how close they were to their advertised weight.

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What's nice about the INTERCOMP scales is you can see 'where the weight' is distributed from right to left. For chassis set up this will help racers allot! We'll come back to this past later on in the build when we add a lightweight Silencer to the sled. By looking at the scale above you can see where we'll be able to balance out the front of the sled by taking some weight off that Left side where the heavy stock silencer has the sled unbalanced at this time by an even 6lbs. To some that might not mean much, but to us we know from previous builds a balanced sled is a much better handling sled on the trail

Give the INTERCOMP lineup of products a look and then send us in any part #'s you'd like quotes on

#3 Guest_Spenc_*

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Posted 15 October 2008 - 08:47 PM

Getting Sleds dialed in is only half the fun, the real party starts when we hit the trails, so when it comes to staying comfortable and warm we always look to our friends at FXR RACING. Big thanks goes out to Aaron Wiebe & Diane Cabernel at FXR RACING for helping us out with their new BACKSHIFT series which is simply KILLER! We've never been cold out on the ice or the trail since we hooked up with FXR RACING so give them a look if you're in need of some really warm and Super KOOL winter outerwear.


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Thanks again FXR Racing

#4 Guest_Spenc_*

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Posted 18 October 2008 - 09:21 PM


We've had our SS Railers for a bit now but we'll thank Kevin at USI SKIS once again as this pair sent up for our PROJECT DRAGON 800SP build will go to good use on the ice this winter for top mph testing.

We're not losing any weight here as the stock skis weighed in at a very light 6lbs 13oz with stock 3" carbides compared to our SS Railers at 8lbs 6oz with 6" shaper bars - and or 8" round carbides ( both tested within oz's of eachother on our digital scales ).

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for more pics go to : http://2koolperformance.ca/forum/index.php?showtopic=2434

Thanks again Kev cheers.gif

#5 Guest_Spenc_*

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Posted 19 October 2008 - 05:47 PM

With a few nice days left it's time to get to polishing. We've talked about this many times before but here are some helpful tips to prepare metal surfaces.

First it's time to tape up all those sharp edges. I've been doing this stuff since I was a kid and there's one thing that is bound to happen when doing work like this around a bunch of sharp edges and that is some pretty nasty flesh wounds. No sense wasting time running for bandaids or stitches just take a bit of time to wrap up any sharp edges with some tape and you'll be all set!

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Here's a helpful tip - for reflectors on the sides of the tunnel ( some come with screws anchored from the inside tunnel area but on this sled they're just stock on with two way tape ) If you take a heat gun to the inside of the tunnel you'll find they'll come off very easy without braking, As well, this saves having to wedge something sharp in behind them that can result in a broken deflector or worse a serious gouge in the tunnel you're about to polish.

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With a new sled like our Dragon ( a.k.a "FAT CHICK" ) we'll start with 1500 grit wet sandpaper. For older sleds with some miles and scratches on them we'd start with 800 grit , moving 1000 grit, to 1200, to 1500 then finishing up with 2000 grit. What you're trying to do here is get the metal FLAT, the flater/duller you can get the finished metal the better the end result will be as far as shine. We didn't take the time to wet sand our PROJECT XTX as the 09 Yamaha tunnels are a bit smoother than this POLARIS tunnel. Remember our tip to use some mild dish or car soap which not only helps with sanding, but makes for an easier clean up afterwards. Keep your hose running near by in a mist so you can constantly wash the wet sand paper and then reapply some soap before sanding again, keep repeating as well as rinsing the tunnel in-between different degrees of grit paper - makes final clean up a snap!

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Notice how we have everything stripped off the back of the sled, this is to prepare for the installation of tunnel protectors and to give us some room for working around the sled as we have a few ideas up our sleeve for this project build.

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Ready for some BUSCH SuperShine Aluminum Polish. We'll tuck this ride back into the shop, grab some pizza and check out some Football - our work is done for now.

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Stay 'tuned' cheers.gif

#6 speedykirb


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Posted 21 October 2008 - 06:43 PM

hey spence do u offer this buffing shinning service?????????????? 080402cool_prv.gif

#7 Guest_Spenc_*

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Posted 21 October 2008 - 07:48 PM

QUOTE (speedykirb @ Oct 21 2008, 06:43 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
hey spence do u offer this buffing shinning service?????????????? 080402cool_prv.gif

you mean on sleds right? rollinglaugh.gif at 42 I still 'tap' more than maple tree's ya know

but seriously? you mean sleds right?


#8 Guest_Spenc_*

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Posted 21 October 2008 - 08:55 PM

One of the first changes we're making to this sled is the seat foam. At the spring Snow Check it was the first thing we didn't like this on sled. The seating position itself is excellent but for us the seat foam was simply too stiff, expecially when comparing it at the show to the Ski-Doo and Yamaha seats. Maybe we're getting old but when we put on hundreds of miles on any given weekend we want to be comfortable #1.

Robert Delegarde did our seat justice by changing the top 2 1/2 " of stock foam to a more rider friendly density. While at it he added some red vynl for us so Mel Shannon won't sneak off with our 'surely to be FASTER' version tongue_nana.gif

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As you can see our friends from around the industry are jump'n on board

stay 'tuned'

#9 Guest_Spenc_*

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Posted 22 October 2008 - 04:39 PM

As many already know these sleds are coming very FAT/RICH from the factor and have dyno'd approx 10HP less than what has been advertised. To get these sleds to where they should be we're providing the DynoJet POWERCOMMANDER III. With just the addition of this easy to use plug and play fuel programmer dyno tests have shown 153HP with no other modification. Anyone that purchase these Programmers through us here with www.sled-werx.com ( sales@2koolperformance.ca ) in Canada will receive as a special bonus the DynoTech Research D8 maps from all DRAGON 800SP dyno testing to date and you will have access to all future maps by email from further testing. Please see our www.sled-werx.com page for the maps to date that we'll be sending out on CD fpr you

Pricing on these programmers is $349 CAD however the dollar continues to fall. To purchase this product direct out of the US on credit card would net a credit card statement transaction of $450+ US with today's .79 cent Canadian Dollar, that's even before US shipping to Canada. We're providing them ( as of this week for $425 CAD ) saving our clients both time and money as well as any further brokerage fee's which you are not affected by when purchasing through 2KOOL Performance. For now we're taking a list of names down for our next order ( first order has sold out already ) so make sure to email in to avoid delays

We would like to thank Jim at http://www.dynotechresearch.com/ and encourage everyone to register up on his site for all dyno test results for only $20 US.

Jim was very pleased at how fast we have this programmers here in Canada to help our clients.

We'll get you all ROCK'n!

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#10 Guest_Spenc_*

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Posted 22 October 2008 - 10:24 PM


These projects are a blast when great companies get involved and one we've enjoyed working with over the last couple of years is ArcticFX Graphics.com . Owner Jordan Yankee is always eager to help out on our projects and this one was no different. Again keeping things 'simple' we opted for some larger company logo's, some decent looking registration #'s, and some other logo's for some industry leading aftermarket companies who are supporting this sled build. Lot's to look forward to with this PROJECT DRAGON 800SP build now that we know there's potential under the hood. We thank Jordan for putting his touch on our project build and encourage everyone to give ArcticFX Graphics a call.

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Make sure to check out all the wild custom graphics kits they have available by visiting ArcticFX online
at the link provided here -

Thanks again Jordan! cheers.gif

#11 Guest_Spenc_*

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Posted 23 October 2008 - 11:00 AM

We are changing out the track on this project build - Please contact us at sales@2koolperformance.ca if you are interest in our NEW stock 121x15 1.25" RipSaw track ( fully clipped - part # 9968H )

site price with current .80 cent dollar would be $591
we'll sell for $425 CAD to first interested party . Would be able to ship in about 4 weeks or less when we do our suspension tweeks ( track is still in the sled as shown above )

thank you

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#12 Guest_Spenc_*

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Posted 23 October 2008 - 02:02 PM

While we wait for our new track of choice to arrive we wanted to thank some other great companies who we represent proudly here in Canada.

HOLZ Racing Products

HOLZ Racing is an industry leader who we turn to for many clients here in Canada. We would like to thank Matt Rohrbach from HOLZ Racing for providing our PROJECT DRAGON 800SP build with their new
HRP IQ/RMK Front Shock Well Vent Kit as well as their Rear IQ 2Wheel Axle Kit . These parts will come to good use in keeping our underhood temperature down as well as helping our rear skid roll a little freer

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You can check out all the great HOLZ Racing Products by folling this link below
http://www.holzracingproducts.com/ . Please contact us with part #'s from HOLZ web site for Exceptional Canadian Pricing - sales@2koolperformance.ca

We'll be installing these parts in the coming weeks so ....

Stay 'tuned'

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#13 Guest_Spenc_*

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Posted 23 October 2008 - 02:22 PM

We'll want to get our stock suspension as free rolling as possible so turning to Wahl Racing for thier STALKER Radar helping Wear Resistent Rear Idlers is our next addtion to this build.

WAHL Brother's Racing

The people at WAHL Racing are simply fantastic and co-owner Dave Wahl shares our passion for snowmobiling and getting the most out of all sleds as far as performance. We want to thank Dave , his brother and staff for always making sure our Canadian Clients are looked after here through our www.sled-werx.com racing divison at 2KOOL Performance.com and we wish them continued success. These trick new billet wear resisent idlers will go along way to help us improve our rear skids performance.

thanks again Dave! cheers.gif

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make sure to check out all the great products at Wahl Brother's Racing by following this link below
http://www.wahlracing.com/ and drop us a line to sales@2koolperformance.ca with any part #'s you want exceptional Canadian Pricing on.

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We'll be installing these parts in the coming weeks so ....

Stay 'tuned'

#14 Guest_Spenc_*

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Posted 23 October 2008 - 03:11 PM


When our Dragon hits the trails it will be FULL BOAR / FULL THROTTLE so we'll rely on ROYAL PURPLE's Snow 2-C to provide Maximum Performance. Royal Purple is known all over the world for it's unmatched performance lubricants and in our in-house testing we have yet to find a better product. We would like to thank Patrick Burris for his continued support of our projects and look forward to burning off our OEM lubricants and getting the SNOW 2-C working through our DRAGON 800SP build. We'll also be using ROYAL PURPLE 'Synchromax' in our Chain Case, again tested postive during radar testing here in Canada.

Royal Purple's SNOW 2-C is available here in Canada through our www.sled-werx.com division

Thanks again Patrick, we've seen the proof of this oil on our PROJECT FXR F7 build to the tune of 133.9mph 'stock motor' and know it FLAT OUT WERX!

you can check out all the great ROYAL PURPLE products here - http://www.royalpurple.com/

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#15 Guest_Spenc_*

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Posted 26 October 2008 - 06:44 PM

While we're deciding on which track we're going to run on this sled it was time to get back at polishing. Again this tunnel was wet sanded and then buffed by hand with BUSCH SuperShine Aluminum Polish - in stock always for $17.99 CAD

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#16 Guest_Spenc_*

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Posted 02 November 2008 - 08:11 PM

push through studs

When making the decision to go to a lighter and narrower track in the Camoplast hacksaw we knew making up traction over the 1.25" RipSaw track would be paramount. For studs for this project we turn to Roetin Industries ( now INNS Products ) and would like to thank Ed Rubel for his support of what we do here at SLED-WERX Racing. Ed has sent us their very popular Hornet STINGER and SCORPION studs along with lightweight aluminum backers. Arguably the most aggressive combination of studs available today for performance/aggressive trail we'll use 96 Hornet STINGERS and 48 SCORPIONS and place them down the center of our Hascksaw track in a 4-2-3 pattern and will concentrate on providing as many scratch lines as possible by never repeating our 3 row rotational pattern. We'll explain this in more detail with pics when our track shows up.

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Exclusive 70 degree "rimless" tip eliminates stud "float" providing plenty of bite for control on the trail
and safe stopping on all surfaces

Hornet STINGER push throughs
sold in 24, 96, 144, 1000 packs
1.000, 1.080, 1.180
only $1.85 CAD each
1.340 only $1.99 CAD each
1.520 only $2.10 CAD each
1.640 only $2.19 CAD each

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Not to be used exclusively, but to mix in with regular studs. As few as 24-48 on the inside/middle of track are recommended due to extreme penetrating design and only for 144 and up total stud applications

Scorpion push throughs
sold in 24 and 96 packs
1.000, 1.080, 1.180, 1.340
only $2.99 CAD each
1.340 only $3.09 CAD each

Thanks again Ed

#17 Guest_Spenc_*

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Posted 08 November 2008 - 10:41 PM

Turning METAL into MIRRORS is easy when following our polishing tips. Here's another shot showing the results of wet sanding then polishing by hand with BUSCH Super Shine Aluminum Polish.

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#18 Guest_Spenc_*

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Posted 09 November 2008 - 07:26 PM

While we're waiting for our new track , it was time to install the HOLZ Racing IQ/RMK Front Shock Well Vent Kit. This is a very straight forward install with the provided templates. We chose this product because the black grills blend in with our sleds stock looks. You will have to remove the shocks and the stock muffler to get at the shock towers properly for drilling. Notice how someone at Polaris was a little over-aggressive with the silicone, made for a mess of our shocks.

The addition of the HOLZ Shock Well Vent Kit will help keep our clutches KOOL and on the muffler side will keep us from getting the warned HOT RIGHT FOOT

These kits are provided through our www.sled-werx.com division for $66.99 CAD
make sure to check out all the great HOLZ Racing Products by folling this link below
http://www.holzracingproducts.com/ . Please contact us with part #'s from HOLZ web site for Exceptional Canadian Pricing - sales@2koolperformance.ca

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#19 Guest_Spenc_*

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Posted 09 November 2008 - 07:38 PM

While our exhaust was out it was time to weigh for comparison with future exhaust mods that we'll make after we get some miles on the sled

Stock pipe weighed in at an even 13lbs

Stock silencer weighed in at a whopping 15lbs 10oz

tests already completed at DYNO PORT have shown there's a HP or 2 to be found in replacing the stock silencer with a much lighter alternative - that's with both the SLP silencer and both DYNO PORT offerings ( soon to be available ) the BIG VOLUME Trail and BIG CORE BARKER ( Loudest silencer on the market today )

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Looking at this pick makes us eager to get this sled out on the lake, broke in, and then LEANED OUT!

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#20 Guest_Spenc_*

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Posted 09 November 2008 - 07:51 PM

Been waiting to get a look at the chain case on this sled for awhile. The stock set up here is VERY efficient, but we'll look to improve it a little with some testing. The early spring video showing the 800 IQ at 118mph running a stock 1" hacksaw with no studs ( less rotation mass ) 'was' no hoax, even if presented during the final weeks of Snow Check. Keep in mind that we started our 03 F7 build with stock 22/41 gearing - 1.86 ratio, and ended with a 1.52 ratio to achieve 133.9mph. We ran a 24/38 gearing on the trail ( 1.58 ratio ) which gave us far more mph, less track spin, more midrange pull and far better fuel economy. With all these benifits test proven you can see why we've shy'd away from the CAT Diamond Drive

With this PROJECT DRAGON 800SP build we'll find a smaller set of gears saving some rotation mass while picking up both mph 'and' better fuel milage.

The stock gearing on the 800SP is 25/40 a 1.6 ratio which again is matched VERY efficiently to the stock 9 tooth drivers. We'll take some pics later on to show a couple alternative gear ratio's that we'll put together with our clutch kits ( working with DALTON, DYNOPORT & TEAM at this time ). The weight saved by reducing both gears and chain size will prove positive later on as this build continues. As always, any weight savings off the driveline is CRUCIAL for improved performance over the stock set up.

The stock gear oil Polaris uses we were very impressed with, especially compared to the OEM CAT chain case oil we've seen in the past. The Polaris chain case oil reminds us allot of what we will be replacing it with and that is ROYAL PURPLE's Synchromax.

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#21 Guest_Spenc_*

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Posted 09 November 2008 - 08:25 PM

I've said this already but I'll say it again - Getting past the over-kill on the shock tower silicone job, the overall quality of this sled from the factory is VERY impressive. It 'appears' POLARIS really has come along way as far as build quality.

Looking through the sled carefully the only problem area we noticed ( and perhaps it won't be as this sled doesn't vibrate like some of the past Polaris big twins ) was a coolant hose that 'could' become victim of rub through on the bottom side as it lays against the bulkhead. A quick dab of silicone and rubber placed on the underside and this won't be a problem for us down the road. We plan to drive this sled build HARD so now is the time to double check for possible wear issues. - So far so good! very impressed!! cheers.gif

There were no electrical concerns as far as possible rub throughs against the body work during our check through, (much unlike the F7 that was full of them - one that almost caused an electrical fire )

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#22 BR*


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Posted 10 November 2008 - 01:23 PM

080402cool_prv.gif looking good Spenc

#23 D800SP


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Posted 10 November 2008 - 01:24 PM

I like the holz shock well kit but i still think i am going to add some pre filter material because i'm sure snow dust will get into those holes.

I did read the Q and A section on holz' website stating that prefilter is not necessary but it seems the primary is subject to snow dust ingestion from other sleds or by deep powder.

#24 Guest_Spenc_*

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Posted 10 November 2008 - 06:18 PM

I was concerned with that as well however when you get the kit you will see that the clutch side vent has different smaller holes than the muffler side shock tower.. We have the pre-filter material here but after looking at it for a bit felt the holes in that clutch side vent piece were so small that it wouldn't be an issue - like HOLZ indicates

unless you're looking to snorkle I wouldn't be concerned but we'll let everyone know as the season progresses and we get out an get 'at er'

#25 Guest_Spenc_*

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Posted 13 November 2008 - 09:12 PM

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As already mentioned we chose this particular model due to it's power to weight ratio, however with dyno results showing far less than what was/is being advertised by the manufacturer we knew we had our work cut out for us to get back to the performance potential we were initially looking for. We took a long look at this sleds chassis and we can see potential, at least for 'our' riding style - that being mostly hardpacked to icy trails and the odd "GET IT ON" duels with our bro's out on the Lakes here in Eastern Ontario Canada. Unfortunately we're not blessed here locally with the BIG LAKE EFFECT snows and anyone would agree that last seasons exceptional winter full of snow for most regions here in the East was very 'unusual'. Knowing what we want to achieve with this particular sled build means freeing up HP to the track and that starts with a track swap. Help here comes from our friends at CAMOPLAST who supported our PROJECT FXR F7 Build. This time we'll use the 14"x121" HACKSAW track. CAMOPLAST marketing and promotions rep Bruce Dashnaw believes in what we do here at 2KOOL Performance with our SLED-WERX Racing division's FROZEN THUNDER Snowmobile Forums so after a quick phone call, Bruce had us "HOOKED UP" 080402cool_prv.gif

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An improvement in overall trail performance and top end MPH should come with the CAMOPLAST "Hacksaw" 14"x121" 1 inch fully clipped track. We believe the reduction in rotational mass of approx 7lbs that the narrower HACKSAW part #9027H will provide us over the stock RIPSAW 15"x121" 1.25" fully clipped track will show positive results once out on the trail and especially on the lake. Our ol bud and fellow Dragon 800SP'er mshanno might get the jump on us for about 50-60' but after that it's OVA!!!! wanna_race.gif

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One of the first things we noticed about the DRAGON 800SP that we didn't care for was how tight the 15" stock track fit in the tunnel. The pictures shown below show how close the stock track rides along the inside tunnel walls. Imagine for a second ice and hard packed snow up and around that stock track and how much more cramped it would become, we see that as a drag on the sled. The narrower HACKSAW track surely won't provide the same bite on hardpack as the 1.25" RIPSAW, however it should easily out mph the 1.25" lugged RIPSAW and once we get it poked full of HORNETS and SCORPIONS we think we'll have a better 'balance' for both hard pack trail performance and top end mph/ drags.

Thanks again Bruce! You_Rock_Emoticon.gif

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Make sure to check out all the great CAMOPLAST Tracks by following the link below and remember we're here to provide excellent sales and service for these great products through our www.sled-werx.com division.


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#26 Guest_Spenc_*

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Posted 15 November 2008 - 08:31 PM

STUDDING - here's how we do it

While we have the new track here waiting for the swap, we'll get it drilled out for studs. Something we never do here is follow a set template from the manufacturers because in our opinion and from testing they simply do not provide enough scratch lines for proper penetration. For most the templates you can grab on the internet are fine for general trail use, however we're always trying to get the most potential and performance out of our sleds so we take it a little further

A standard 121" track like the Hacksaw we're studding here has 48 individual bars. A typical 144 ( down the middle ) stud pattern of 4-2-4-2 that repeats 12 exact times will provide 12 different scratch lines. Again to most this is adequate and all you need for normal trail performance and safety. The pictures below will show where we stretch the pattern to 8 bars/rows over the standard 4 bar pattern. By stretching to a 4-2-4-2-4-2-4-2 pattern over 8 rows before repeating we achieve 24 different scratch lines in a pattern that repeats only 6 times total. Anytime you're out with your buddies on some clear ice take a close look at the scratch patterns left by sleds that have followed a very short repeating template for studding and you will see what we're talking about here. You'll notice if you have clean ice how a standard/normal pattern will trench into the ice from repeating to often and with too few scratch lines - that's lost traction / lost performance

We'll spend up to an hour placing out a repeating 8 bar pattern like this shown below but in the end it will prove far superior to any standard stud pattern that repeats itself too often. This also allows you to use less studs which keeps rotational mass of the extra weight of studs under control. In our case with this build we'll start with 144 studs using 98 HORNETS and 48 SCORPIONS. The superior penetration provided by the SCORPIONS along with our taking the time to stretch out a 24 scratch line pattern should provide enough traction over having to go to 160 or more studs.

First we lay the track out so it's easy to work with - this is after we have a pattern picked out on paper

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then we place the backers on the loose track so we can make sure of proper placement, using a ruler for any backers that appear to be a little too close to any previous placed backers - taking the time now to be accurate will provide for 24 clean scratch lines
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Next we mark with paint pen, purchased at most dollar stores - once we have our 8 bar pattern set and marked we can add the next 8 bar series to the track using the first 8 bars with all the loose backers for quick reference

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Once we have the track completely marked we'll drill it out

Nothing to do with studding however while we were waiting for the paint pen dots to try we quickly masked off and painted the shock tower belt bracket brace that Polaris left natural. To us it just looked unfinished so we blended it in with the lower black belly pan

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#27 Guest_Spenc_*

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Posted 16 November 2008 - 09:25 PM


Here's our new CAMOPLAST Hacksaw track all dotted out and ready to drill. Experience has proven the use of a cheap milk crate is perfect for supporting the track while drilling our stud holes

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We use an electric drill and track drill for punching out the holes. A standard portable drill will not heat up the track enough , in our opinion it is best to burn out the holes to provide more of a melted inner core. You want to hold the bit in the track until it smokes. Some may do it differently but in all our years of installing studs we have never had a single stud pull out of a track - that's enough success for us to keep doing it this way

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Best to keep a narrow push through tool handy as the hot rubber pieces extricated from the track can get all gummed up in the track drill. Be CAREFULL here as the track drills are VERY sharp, been the victim numerous nasty gashes while doing this when not being careful.
( of course it may have been the beer's fault ) burp.gif

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With our holes punched we then push all the studs through the track - have done it many different ways but this seems to be the fastest

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Once all the main studs are in the track we then set all the backers and screws just tight enough to keep them together with the backers all straight - ( as shown below ready to be wrenched/torqued down) Notice the 45 degree angle we have on the SCORPIONS , this is recommended by ROETIN for maximim penetration/traction so we recommend you take the time to index them at this angle for best performance.
Be Careful here again as the SCORPION studs are VERY Sharp! These are going to hook up something WILD out on the lake! thumbsup2.gif

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Something to NOTE: - between making your dots/marks on the track to when you drill your holes the drill at times may wonder a bit, not a big deal at all if your studs are not close together but at times they are so when you test fit your studs and backers together and you find the holes are too close ( which will pinch the backers and force your studs on an angle ) you will want to simply grind down the sides of the backers. We feel this is most likely the cause of double backer plates at times pulling out.. because with a double backer plate there is no room for correction, meaning if the holes under the double backer plates are too close together when you then wrench down your studs you will actually be tearing the track between the holes under the double backer plate - this is our theory as there seems to be more problems with double backer plates/studs combo's pulling out than with singles.
( just something to pass along )

shown here we just provide a bit of breathing room for our backers to butt up with eachother.

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Tools ready for wrenching our studs down - Stay 'tuned' cheers.gif

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#28 D800SP


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Posted 17 November 2008 - 02:02 PM

I ordered 48 double backers and 48 singles for my sled. I'm starting to second guess myself on the doubles after reading your post. It does make sense. I've always used singles until this sled, so i guess i'll have to take my time when drilling to ensure a good fit.

#29 Guest_Spenc_*

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Posted 17 November 2008 - 04:04 PM

just take your time while drilling, our recommendation there is carefully drill the holes out through the double backer so you know they're bang on

just take your time and you'll be fine

#30 Guest_Spenc_*

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Posted 22 November 2008 - 06:40 PM


We've talked about studding above but we wanted to show our studs placed in the track so others could see we're not going crazy with the wrenches here. All you're looking to do is get the stud flush with the interior side of the track, anything further and in our opinion you're asking for pull-throughs. We use a portable drill and then hand tightened them a 1/2 a turn. BE CAREFUL when working around studs like these SCORPIONS or ICE PICKS, you can get some serious finger damage with a slip of the socket!

The first picture shows our studs before final 1/2 turn by hand which will sit them down lower than what is shown here so that you don't see any edges of the backs of your studs, you want to get that edge sunk down just so it's fluch, but not too far to bubble or bulge the track. Wheels will pass over with no damage if you take the time to do this right. Again we've never had a stud pull through or a torn up idler wheel by following these studding steps

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also shown here for anyone interested - you can see how much penetration we'll have with the 1.180's on this 1" lug HACKSAW. We think this will be perfect for our purpose with this sled and that's to have good traction on the trail as well as not being too long for some top end MPH times on the lake - time will tell

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